Live in the Northeast where ice dams are a common occurance. Why is it that one roofer tells me ice & water shield goes over the drip edge and another says that in extreme conditions the ice & water is applied first, then the drip edge. What gives?
mine was done 15 yrs ago and is over the drip, now I guess they go under the drip....Read the Grace pkg and I guess this is what they say..
We have always done drip edge under on the eave and over on the rake.
Under the drip along the gutterline and over the drip on the rakelines.
:evil:Ice and water shield is always applyed first.It has to go over the fashia board then the drip..The reason is if the gutter forms a ice dam the ice will try or will trevel under the drip edge on top of the ice shield. If you put the drip on then the ice shield it won't work because the ice will lift up the drip and hit nothing but plywood ,then your really in trouble
The consensus is under the drip on the eave and over the drip on the rakes? Why not under the drip edge on the rakes too? Wouldn't that be safer?
I know it does not make sense, but I have personally had better luck installing it above the drip edge. I installed under the drip edge for years and after several bad winters have found that over or under, Grace or price leader ice and water, that it is far from fool proof and water still finds its way in when severe ice damns are present.
I usually put my underlayment down first but I seen guys who put the drip edge on first. As long as you have ice and water shield on your bottom layer any nail with seal up. The only problem I have with edging first is some idiots have been using staples to fasten there drip and over time the drip is only held on by the ice and water.
If Ice damming is expected you should try to address the cause of the ice damming.
In this case the best way is to use a 8"-10" wide strip of I&W folded down over the facia and into the gutter on the eaves, then apply your drip edge, then apply your courses of I&W.
This will sandwich the drip edge in the I&W, you can't get any better than that.
On the rakes the underlayment goes on first and the drip edge over the top of the underlayment.
The purpose for this is so that wind driven rain does not infiltrate under the underlayment.
Pretty basic stuff guys and I'm kinda disappointed in some of you that you don't know this... :roll:
This cracks me up. The answers actually had me questioning myself. I pulled the GAF Steep Slope field guide and double checked.
Drip over underlayment on rakes as said above and under I&W on eaves. (whew, thought I was doing it wrong.) I do agree with the post above though, I*W, then drip, then I&W would be excellent.
We've had inspectors make us pull up the bottom 3 rows if our underlayment doesn't run at least even with the drip on the eaves.
I have done it 3 different ways
Most common...I/W below rake metal and above eave metal
For some commercial projects they want the I/W first so that it wraps over the fascia...then the eave metal on top as well as rake over top too.
Same as point #2 but an addition I/W strip over the rake and eave metal. Same way you would seal in valley metal with I/W
:o axium Its not expected it just happens .This year the lake is still above freezing and when it snows and draws its energy from the lake its a heavy wet snow .We got 4 feet on dec 4 5 But the right way is ice and water shield first then drip edge and if you want a strip on top of the drip edge
I have done it the exact way you installed with proper soffit and ridge ventilation and it has still failed. Ice and water shield is not by any means fool proof.
To GUARANTEE no leaks from ice back-up - waterproofing membrane must go over fascia and behind gutter and under metal .....
Want to make the job even more secure, strip-in metal with 9" cut piece of ice / water ......
Rake Edges up to 3 feet inside interior wall should be treated same as gutter edge detail - After that if you have a good slope run it any way you desire .... But under the metal would avoid any wind driven rain issues at edges ..... And then run your felt over the metal - Once again you have the metal sandwiched between two membranes - which should eliminate any wind driven leak issues ....
But I question the use of ice /water at rake edges, we don't normally do it ..... At walls, skylights, chimneys, yea but at rake edges - haven't seen the need and we are in the Chicago Area .....
First gutter flashing(L flashing) along the eave,socond ice-dam protection membrane, third is underlayment, fourth is drip edge(T flashing) flashing alonge adge with nails aprx. 12 inches.
Carry it one step further. Not only does extending the I&WS an inch or two down the face of fascia board help prevent ice-damming damage, but it allows the roofer to install the metal edge-flashing and then the roofing felt. I&WS applied to valleys and such should extend overtop the drip-edge at roof perimeter, but that is because there should already be I&WS beneath the drip-edge where installed over eave area.
In other words, install the I&WS first, then your metal, then your felt, followed by the shingles. Along rake edge, both the I&WS and felt should extend beneath the drip edge.
Which way is the water running...
Drip edge must be install first, if you put your ice shield first, any ice backing up, when it melt will cause water to run under the drip edge and run between the fascia and into you soffit. And ice and water shield should run a minimum of 24" inside heated wall.
Ice damming occur not only in the eaves it start from when melting water reach a non heated area.(Your overhang)
And keep in mind ice & water shield cannot be expose to the UV rays.
Ice and water gets installed first. It should run over and down the eave aprox 3 inches, covering the opening between the roof deck and fascia. Your drip edge goes OVER this!
Please, please, please, install felt paper over the top of your Ice Shield so those areas are fully repairable at a later date! This goes on top of the drip.
good ventalion and good insulation, no need for ice & water shield
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