after almost 30 years, our flat tile roof has called it a day. we are now in the process of getting estimates mainly from roofers who come recommended or have done work in our neighborhood. being new to the process, it seems a bit over whelming but i have been able to find some good information on this site although for some reason, i'm unable to use the search function at this time even though I've registered.
I've decided to go with singles because the cost of both tiles & metal are out of our budget at this time. what questions should I be asking when a roofer comes over for an inspection/estimate. They all seem to suggest using peel & stick as the first layer but are there preferred bands? I realize this is the most important aspect of the roofs integrity so I want a good product. so far we've had a 2 brand of shingles offered, GAF Timberland and Certainteed.
What things should I consider being in a hot, humid climate?
Just looking for a little guidance at this time, thanks.
Roofer Mike is your area.
is Roofer Mike, the business name because I didn't find it using a Google search.
are there benefits in using a peel & stick product over felt paper? (30lbs is the Miami-Dade requirements and many here adhere to that). Is the peel & stick going to provide breathability which I assume is the intent of a felt paper layer.
Try this link roofermikeinc.com/
Not sure how to address your code issues, I prefer not to "peel & stick" entire roof decks- It is the best way IMO to count sheets of plywood on a roof, at least up here in Vermont on a cool, dewey mornings.
Maybe different there... aside from Irene and Sandy we don't see many hurricanes... oh, ventilation is the answer so I am told...
EPDM is better than peel and stick.
I'm a roofer in the Fort Lauderdale area and I am a little confused why anybody is suggusting peal and stick for a shingle roof. Miami-Dade building code for a shingle roof is re-nail the ply-wood decking, mechanically fasten a 30# base sheet using tin-tags and 1 1/4" ring shank nails, install all valley metal and nessary drip edge, then install the shingles of choice, using six nails per shingle. As for as ventallation is concerned you could install a goose neck, a all purpuse vent, or you could install a cobra ridge vent on the ridge of the roof. Hope this helps.
The OP said the roof is "flat".
Didn't see the "Flat" only saw the "tile".
just to be clear, I am replacing a "flat tile" roof as opposed to a "barrel tile". My roof is hip style in design with a 5/12 pitch.
The most recent estimate I got was from someone who seemed very professional. He didn't see the need for a peel & stick product. The company uses all GAF products including Deck Armor underlayment and Shingles. Their installers are GAF Master Installers and I've come to learn this adds to the warranty of the product. Thus far, their estimate is the most detailed and one of the lower estimates too.
learning more every day.
roofcheck, thanks for the reference but Roofer Mike is in the Miami-Dad area, i'm in Sarasota county on the SW Coast.
I have 2 more recommended roofers dropping by this week, then I will make my decision. With the underlay, the debate continues. Friends whom I've talked to in the area who have re-roofed swear that a peel & stick underlay is the way to go citing 1. in the event that singles get blown off, you have protection, 2. when the shingle nails penetrate the underlay, it will form a gasket around the nail. I was even at a friends who's buddy was a local architect and he, without hesitation, said to go with a peel and stick underlay.
So can someone list the pros and cons of using one over the other?
So basically they are wanting to put Ice & Water Shield over the entire deck before shingles. Just make sure there is plenty of ventilation @ the eaves and peaks. GAF Timberline, Certainteed Landmarks, Owens Corning Duration are pretty much equal, go with the better long termed warranty that is offered thru the roofer