My house is going to get a new roof due to tornado damage. My gutters are like new and I would like to make sure that they don't get damaged while the roof is being torn off and new shingles installed. What is the best way to keep the gutters from getting damaged?
Remove them first & put them way out of the way of foot traffic & falling debris. Re install after the roof is completed. Would be the best way. Or prior to the rip, the house is going to need to be tarped. So loop the tarp under each gutter hanger & simply poke a 16 penny spike through the tarp (Stich together) to hold it. No nailing required. Like hanging a curtain or drapes.
Corry has provided some great advice,,but to add to it we install roof jacks with 2"x 6" s to keep the tear off from reaching the gutters.We install them a couple feet from the gutters.Being very careful works too.
The roof jack trick works for multiple layers.But single layered roofs are really simple to keep debris away from the gutters.
Majority of damage to gutters during a reroof is from ladders.Request your roofers to have ladder stand offs.They are a device that is attached to the top of the ladder that allows the ladder to rest against the roof deck rather than crushing the gutters.
If for some reason they are not using stand offs have them rest the ladder against the rake line.The ladder can still be tied off on the rake without a stand off and to the roof deck with a stand off to comply with OSHA regs.
We use jacks as well, and a piece of 1X6 board works great to keep the gutters protected.
This depends on the steepness of your roof. If you have a 6/12 or less, you shouldn't have to do anything. Anything over a 7/12 pitch and things start to slide. But keeping garbage out of the gutters is pretty easy, if you're careful.
Other than that, ladder arms or a piece of plywood will keep the ladder away from your gutter.
OSB rips 16" screwed (nails don't hold as well) along roof along bottom of second course of shingles. This protects both the gutter and pushes the debris that much further away from home and landscaping. Then tarps over this and finally roof brackets and 2x12's.
We do use 2x12's and I buy 14' boards, install wood brackets from the end of the roof 2',8',14', 16', 22' 28' and so on. This layout ensures no overlapping of planks, no spans greater than 6' between brackets and no planks overlapping brackets on the ends greater than one foot.
Ya. Sorry I failed to mention the brackets(jacks) as well. Like one of the other guys said, if its a walker you'll be able to toss the rip off the side into a dumpster or dumptruck. Still I like to remove the gutter, install my ice & watershield 11/2" to 2" onto the fascia board, & then sandwich that ice & watershield between the fascia board & a 1"x2" or 1"x3" shadowboard. I try to install shadow board on all my jobs if they weren't build with it. Do that & you'll never get an icedam that'll back its way up under your roof system. : )
IMO way to much work taking gutters off. on 7/12 + i make my guys hang tarps like cory said then i lay 1x6 boards in gutter to prevent shingles smashing them and ladders scraping them also always have a guy on bottom jack throwing garbage.
sorry rooferman should have read thread better b4 posting i 100 agree its quick and i have have never damaged a gutter
Them gutter guards they sell at ABC Supply are the balls for keeping the ladders from crushing the gutters. I've been using them for close to ten yrs., before them came along i'd wedge a 2x4 in the gutter where the ladders are set up.
Do you put the 1x's in all the gutters? Do they stay in on their own? Seems like they might fall out, blow out (in a strong gust) or get knocked out, and become a safety issue. Or are they the right size to fit between lip of gutter and drip edge? Do you carry two sizes (for 5" and 6" gutters)?
Ive seen the wrapping of Ice and Water onto the fascia board recommended before, but if the drip edge is over the ice and water on the eave instead of under, you now have a fish mouth to catch water if you ever got water under the shingles from above. This water would then go behind the fascia cover and rot the fascia board. I've seen this many times with older 3-tab roofs that have started to get holes in rain grooves. (as an aside, I've also seen it a lot with people roofing who don't know what they are doing and didn't use ice and water and put the felt on first and the drip edge on second) This also would go back to the old argument of whether or not underlayment is necessary. For me, this would be an example of why it is, for the roof's late life when you start to get small holes worn through. An underlayment will help it not leak (as much) until it is replaced.