got a long question here / my mobile home does not vent from the eaves and of course the eaves are rotting out .
what is the best fix for that .
what is the best ridge vent i can use because my 4/12 pitched roof /the roof is 2 sections where they meet is plywood so no air passes from one side to the other.
and of course cathedral ceilings have very little insulation / how to add
what would be the best new roof inexpensive of course
and is should i use a ice and watershield instead of felt as a underlayment
iam in georgia athens bulldog country
Okay, I have some recommendations for you on the assumption that you are going to be changing your roof.
First regarding the eaves, when you take up the shingles to replace your roof, cut the rotted decking up from the eaves however far is necessary, and replace it with new plywood. When you go to replace the roof, make sure you put drip edge along the eave of your roof, and since you had water problems there, check you facia trim to make sure that the drip edge is covering OVER it. If it isn't then get wider drip edge or redo your facia trim to make it come up high enough to be covered.
Regarding ventilation, like you said, the house is divided into two sections and adequate ventilation can be difficult to get. I would suggest a power vent hooked onto a timer, but that would require some wiring. Another option is to put turbine vents strategically placed. They install easily and do a good job sucking air out. Ridge could be an option but I wouldn't recommend it.
Regarding the cheapest roof, it would probably be your standard 3tab shingles. Or check around and you might be able to locate some dimensional shingles on sale. Or a lot of metal suppliers run specials on their metal so check them out too.
On the felt, you wouldn't need to put Ice&Water shield on the whole thing, altho putting it around the perimeter of the roof isn't a bad idea. I would highly recommend the Grip-Rite shingle layment for underlayment. Really awesome stuff. It comes in 10square rolls. Check around and you should be able to find it at more/less $115 a roll.
Since you have a cathedral ceiling it will be hard to get insulation in there altho it is possible with blow in stuff. If you don’t mind metal roofs, getting a good insulated roof would be a lot easier. The way to go about that is to put Double Bubble wrap foil insulation down directly on the decking. Then put 1x4 or 2x4 lathing on top, every foot center. That will give you a good insulation and also put an air space between the foil and metal. I hope that helps!!http://www.roofing.com/forum/posting.php?mode=reply&f=2&sid=500309f5232f5257c35e9b04e1c5d9d0&t=13034#
first i would want to know if your trusses are made up of 1 1/2 inch x 1 1/2 inch..
yes from what i can see the tusses are 1.5 inch / my one other question is at the roofs edge is there blocking between the trusses and is it laid flat or own edge / dumb thing i tried to do was drill holes between the trusses trying to open up to the decking / the wood had to be at least 4 inches thick or more before it opened to the deck . i guess when i take the shingles felt and rotten decking off i will have my anwer but iam trying to buy everthing to do the repair all at once with the weather an open roof is not a good thing / one of the reasons in using a ice and water underlayment / the warranty states can be open for up to 6 months
My helper and I passed by a new construction job yesterday that has been dried in with Ice/Water Shield for a month or so now. There were thousands of wrinkles in it. If a roof is installed over this crap without cutting out the wrinkles every morning when its still code that roof will look terribly wrinkly until the sun warms it up and smooths it out. That process will be repeated daily. On the flip side if all those wrinkles are cut, to me, that just defeats the purpose of installing it in the first place.