I'd like to install copper step flashing on my roof without removing the siding. The step flashing currently there is aluminum, and I understand that copper will eventually destroy any aluminum that it comes into contact with.
If I'm replacing all of the flashing, does it matter if some of the existing aluminum remains under the siding when I install the new copper flashing? Are there chemical reactions, other than the aluminum being destroyed, that I need to worry about?
Copper and Aluminum are too far apart on the anodic scale to use in contact with one another, but contact can be avoided with a coating or some kind of separator. In roofing, often times it is roofing cement that is used, but generally anything that will withstand the elements and keep the metals separate will work. In your case, it could be something as simple as a strip of roofing felt used to keep the metals from coming into contact with one another.
corrosion-doctors.org/Defini ... anic_Table
BTW, dogs save lives too!
So are you saying that something will happen to the copper as well as the aluminum? Because if it's just the aluminum I'm trying to save from corrosion, why would I care?
That said, roofing felt between the metals seems to be a good solution. Thanks.
I agree. The login name is something I use to raise awareness. I'm from Chicago, where most people equate guns with murder, not protection.
Why are you going with copper? You might be better removing some siding and installing 'taller' step tins. Do you think the current one are not just working right? Sometimes a better material does not mean a better product.
This is what I'm replacing - I stopped the install when I saw this. It's also not cut into the mortar, which I've learned is the preferred method of flashing brick. I thought since I'm going to replace this myself, why not go with copper.
Great thought! If you are going to caulk the flashing try to stay at the top of the joint with your grinding.
You should see some of their Hardie siding techniques :shock:
I was planning on cutting towards the bottom of the joint in order to create a small lip to hold the caulk in place. Bad idea?
There will be room for the caulking still. You can squeeze a little into the cut right before you pop each piece in. Don't forget to test fit as you go before pre-caulking.
Proper installation is critical to any building product. These systems are not designed to leak. In many cases, going over the old shingles is fine. I would suggest looking into warranty coverage -- there may be some limitations for steel roofing in your area.
There are many many ways to flash a wall.
And Many ways to counterflash a wall.
Everyone has their own opinion.
Everyone here would have a different custom way of doing it.
i think the only thing that was"horrible' was their color choice of the sealant.
I would have kept the total flashing height much closer to the roof and used a dark brown.
But looks like "someone" wanted the "copper penny" color.(bad choice)
personally, if you want me to break out the angle grinder, the charge for that wall alone would be something with 2 zeros behind it. Enjoy all the mortar/brick in your eyes, teeth, throat and lungs. You will live longer, i am sure of it. Enjoy!
Ps, Guns save lives more than dogs. Dogs are great too and should be used also(not in place of).
Glad to see you are raising awareness in a city where the second amendment and our constitution is despised by the majority.
According to NRCA there are 3 recommended methods for brick counter flashing. This does not seem to be one of them.
Let's not overlook the caulked seam down the center of the flashing. Nice touch.
According to the manufacturer, the step flashing should be 10"x7" (they used 5"x7" ). The counter flashing is close to the proper height based on 10"x7" step flashing.
The Copper Penny was a terrible choice. It's my first roof replacement - live & learn.
If they would have even offered the option of doing it the right way, I would have spent the extra money.
I'm doing it myself now because after researching the subject, it really looks like a fun project.
We appreciate your passion!
please post pics after you are done!
and tell us what you think and how it went.
How long it truely took you, and how much you would charge a complete stranger to do it on their home.
I am just about to start a similar project myself, though on a smaller scale; the roof over my front porch abuts a brick veneer. I picked up a tube of the ugly black FlashMate caulk with my roofing but will return it and use mortar instead. When I checked out copper flashing examples online all the good looking jobs ground out the joints and then tuck-pointed.
Is your roof steeply pitched? The flashing looks like the edge of a saw blade. Better save what you remove to use as a template - that would be an awfully expensive mistake if you mis-cut. BTW, I purchased my copper from stormcopper.com. Very fast delivery though the wider one of my rolls (for the counter flashing) is back ordered. You may also check out the finehomebuilding.com website for articles on flashing.
The scope of this project is roughly 30' of flashing, which includes the wall in the picture above, a shorter wall, 2 cornice returns (eave returns) and a chimney. A roofer that specializes in this type of work estimated the job at 2 days with 2 guys. It will take me a lot longer to complete this project, but then again this is not my specialty.
I'm still weighing the pros/cons of tuck-pointing vs. sealant.
I think the pitch is 10/12. Instead of a single piece cut into a saw tooth shape, I'm thinking of creating each ÃƒÂ¢Ã¢â€šÂ¬Ã…â€œtoothÃƒÂ¢Ã¢â€šÂ¬Ã‚
i prefer open seem brick wall cover with mortar over flashing,seems more accurate
I'm not familiar with this technique. Do you have a picture you could share?
my harddryve was crashed f mo ago and i lost 90% my best colectio pic for las 2 y, but i l try load some from 4-5y ago and restof all. most from ipnone,sorry for quolity.
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