I am remodelling a new home we bought recently and have a problem at the front entrance. It sits right under a valley and water streams down the valley, splashes onto the concrete walkway and messes up the wall, door and threshold.http://www.hapajo.com/images/pict0836.jpg
As you can see from the picture, my problem is how to tie in a roof extension to cover the walkway at the bottom of that valley and still have enough runoff and no leaks.
The extension would be 4' x 12', be supported by two posts, and I think by necessity will have to slope from right to left.
I don't have enough height to go under the existing roof.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Sorry if I haven't been able to explain the problem clearly, but I think the picture says it all.
It is always hard to tell much from pictures, and these are not telling.
Are you missing shingles on the roof? I would find a good roofer to assess your roof, if the shingles are blown back as it appears.
It looks like the existing gutter is barely hanging on, and the gutter that took care of the problem you have is missing.
Gutters will take care of the issues with water that you mention here. A good roofer will know a good gutter contractor. Even with an "addition", the issues I mentioned will remain.
check this out see if it helps any
I already have a pro roofer - he will come in and re-shingle the whole roof as soon as I decide what to do with the walkway to the front door.
I have to cover it - new gutters won't be enough. Besides, I think it will look better if I cover it.
I tend to agree that a flat roof (well... a slight pitch) tied on the the wall under the existing roof is the only solution.
I just can't see a way to extend the existing roof because of the valley.
Get an architect to draw up a plan... it should be pretty simple from the bottom of that roof line.
the gutter that is there now and the gutter that was on the left didnt do anything for your situation.
The most simple way is to remove the overhang completely.
And then install 6 inch seamless gutter system with a splash gaurd at the valley.
That would be the cheapest way. but then you would need upgraded door, door sill,door trim.
because even though you have completely solved water run off problem...doors need overhangs just for windy storms.
So ya, a flat roof with small pitch would be best so you can still have a complete gutter system.
You sound like you know what to do.
I would find a state certified roofing contractor with a building liscense also.
But one that was a roofer before he was a builder.
Usually, and mostly, its the other way around, and those suck.
Usually the ones that are builders who add on roofing,
Have never done any roofing.
post pics when u get it done.I have not did mine yet ,wondering how it will work out
If it is an overhang you want, then I would install an epdm/rubber roof over your low slope overhang. Should be easy to install, the transition would not be a problem for a good roofer. Good luck.
Roof Lover - thanks. I did intend to remove the existing overhang and take aluminum fascia round the corner with guttering and a splash guard "IF" I build a cover for the walkway "UNDER" the existing roof, tied into the walls.
I'm leaning towards this solution, even though it may only be about 6' 9" high by the time I'm done.
I had hoped to figure a way to join on to the existing roof, so the roofer could just continue the shingles from the main roof onto the overhang.
But whichever way I sloped it, I would have the problem of an angle against the fascia, which creates a headache for the roofer.
Estes Roofing - thanks for the epdm suggestion - I'll look into it and see whether it might provide an answer.
4 Season - I will post pictures for sure when it's done.
I would build off the roof slope on the right side, get rid of the existing overhang if it is in the way, and create a new valley that extends past your sidewalk. Or, you can even pull a row of plywood and create a transition from one sloped roof (on right) to your new lower-sloped roof over sidewalk. Since you are re-shingling, now is the time to re-frame as needed.
By the way - to give you a full picture, here's the rest of what has to be done to this house:
The siding is going - to be replaced with stucco.
The fascia is going to be straightened up (plumbed if you know what I mean) and replaced with treated 1 x 6's, covered with aluminum fascia, and new aluminum soffits. Soffits and fascia are currently FIBER BOARD if you can believe that!
The roof is going to be re-done - new boards where necessary, new tar paper, new metal flashings, new drip edge - the whole 9 yards.
Yes - we do tackle this kind of thing - my wife and I, and normally do just about all the work ourselves to save money. We have done 4 of them so far, but this one is the worst one yet. We keep running into unexpected problems and we're having to bring in some pro's this time.
Lot of work!
Im in north florida.
Why plumb the rafter tails?
The gutter on that fascia is installed improperly. There are gutter brackets that hook under a K style gutter (which you have there) and screw through the back. This allows you to employ a T hangar that attaches through this hangar and gets nailed to the rafter on top of the roof deck.
This way, the gutter hangs level from the brackets and will actually do its job, unlike that thing you have there. This is how it should be done when you have square cut rafter tails instead of level cut.
Hey Roof-Lover - I'm in Deltona, FL.
Aaron B - I'm plumbing the rafter tails because I want to install new aluminum fascia over new treated 1 x 2 fascia backing boards, and then finish off with new aluminum soffits.
I can't see doing aluminum soffits at the angle that I have right now. The J or F channel into which the aluminum soffits fit on the wall would be at the wrong angle.
Today I plumbed the rafter tails on one side of the house and it worked out just great. Put the new 1 x 6 fascia backing boards on to the plumbed rafter tails and it's ready for the roofer - well - when I complete the rest of it of course.
Did I read that right? You are putting pressure treated lumber up, and then wrapping it in aluminum? Isn't that a no no?
Thinking the same thing. Treated and aluminum don't mix. Not to mention treated twists
Hey RooferR - I don't think it's a no no.
Florida code has the following clause:
R4406.1.8.4.6 Where aluminum is in contact with
treated wood, wood shall be treated with
pentachlorophenol, 5 percent minimum concentration,
or creosote, or zinc naphthanate.
If you know of any problems I might face, like maybe I should prime the treated wood before covering it with the aluminum, please let me know.
aquarius7251....Hey have you lined up a roofer yet? I live over in Debary and I work for a roofing company out of Winter Park... get in you touch with me if you don't have a roofer lined up yet and let's see if we can do some business...
Found out today that the Yellawood from Home Depot is treated with Micro Copper Quat which is not corrosive to Aluminum.
Guess I could have used untreated, but oh well.
Progressing nicely with the fascia boards and should be able to post some pictures soon.
Not sure when I'll have pics of the lean-to over the walkway. At this stage, I want the roofer to get finished first.
Good info aquarius7251. I can't remember the last time I used preasure treated lumber.
'During' pics would be just as intresting to us as the 'finished' pics.