travis1 wrote:

Manufacturer's make a small strike zone for a reason. Pisses me off. For $65-$80 a square, I just don't quite understand why the strike zone isn't at leat 2 inches.

We use landmarks mainly and on a walkable roof, I don't have a worry about using the big nail line. The cover their buts so well on many things... If they say it is okay to nail there, then why not?

"We use landmarks mainly and on a walkable roof, I don't have a worry about using the big nail line. The cover their buts so well on many things... If they say it is okay to nail there, then why not?"

I had to laugh when I opened the first bundle with the new nail lines, high nailing is now ok on low slopes Hard to break old habits though, I still nail them on the original line low slope or not

I often wonder (actually I'm pretty sure I know) who that widetrack was designed to appease
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Bill6208 wrote:

" I had to laugh when I opened the first bundle with the new nail lines, high nailing is now ok on low slopes Hard to break old habits though, I still nail them on the original line low slope or not

Were the same..
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On a side note:

I have never seen ann insurance company deny any claim as far as a wind damage claim, due to improper nail pattern,

Those certainteed strike zones are a joke.

Malarcky shingles are about the only shingle that has a good double laminated 2" strike zone.

Too bad they are not available here due to Mr Roof Aka Able Roofing having the market share here using what they say is their very own manufactured thunderguard.

travis1 wrote:

Those certainteed strike zones are a joke.

You know what else is a joke is the OC SureNail "Technology"
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travis1 wrote:

On a side note: I have never seen ann insurance company deny any claim as far as a wind damage claim, due to improper nail pattern,

I've been around and around with them on that. A few claims laid at the 'roofer want to be's' door and the insurance rates will drop, and so will the jacklegs.
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Supposedly the CT's have a special adhesive that prevents them from delaminating. Not so with GAF and Tamko.

One thing I will say that I do not like about the Certainteeds is workability after they seal. Unsticking those things just about ruins the shingle. I don't care what you do. Tamko and GAF will unstick easier and are more workable.

All the same I like certainteed best.

[quote="travis1"]Manufacturer's make a small strike zone for a reason.

Pisses me off.

For $65-$80 a square, I just don't quite understand why the strike zone isn't at leat 2 inches. [snip]
[/quote]
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Can you or someone help me understand this because as a homeowner I don't have the experience to second guess the manufacturer. Since it appears I may be headed for a legal showdown with the contractor, I want to be sure it is worth my effort. He claims all contractors roof the way he did mine: many shingles with only 3 nails and most nails in or above the glue strip.

The instructions for the 3 tab shingles on my normally sloped roof call for 4 nails per shingle with each nail placed 5/8" above the cutout. This way each shingle in a course has a total of 8 nails holding it in place.

Looking back in some old DIY books I see that this has been the specifications for decades. There must be some reason why the manufacturer specifies the nails be placed BELOW the glue strip, not in or above it.

Thank you,
Harry

Only hacks roof that way,all roofers DO NOT roof that way
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"He claims all contractors roof the way he did mine: many shingles with only 3 nails and most nails in or above the glue strip."

Roofers don't. Many, painters, plasterers, plumbers, pilots, railroad personnel, and others do.
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During your showdown, be sure and show them these posts.
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tinner666 wrote:

During your showdown, be sure and show them these posts.

Oh Yeah

HarryB wrote:

travis1 wrote: Manufacturer's make a small strike zone for a reason. Pisses me off. For $65-$80 a square, I just don't quite understand why the strike zone isn't at leat 2 inches. [snip] ----------------------- Can you or someone help me understand this because as a homeowner I don't have the experience to second guess the manufacturer. Since it appears I may be headed for a legal showdown with the contractor, I want to be sure it is worth my effort. He claims all contractors roof the way he did mine: many shingles with only 3 nails and most nails in or above the glue strip. The instructions for the 3 tab shingles on my normally sloped roof call for 4 nails per shingle with each nail placed 5/8" above the cutout. This way each shingle in a course has a total of 8 nails holding it in place. Looking back in some old DIY books I see that this has been the specifications for decades. There must be some reason why the manufacturer specifies the nails be placed BELOW the glue strip, not in or above it. Thank you, Harry

If it is going the legal route, you will want to hire yourself a competent roofing consultant. From what you have told us, it sounds like the contractor needs to tear off the new roof and try again with new shingles properly installed per the manufacturer's requirements and generally accepted roofing practices. If the shingles were improperly installed, which is certainly sounds like, then you will have no problem in court against this contractor; however, is it possible he claims bankruptcy and then starts a new company? Yep!
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Cerberus wrote:

If it is going the legal route, you will want to hire yourself a competent roofing consultant. From what you have told us, it sounds like the contractor needs to tear off the new roof and try again with new shingles properly installed per the manufacturer's requirements and generally accepted roofing practices. If the shingles were improperly installed, which is certainly sounds like, then you will have no problem in court against this contractor; however, is it possible he claims bankruptcy and then starts a new company? Yep!

Why would I think that a local "competent roofing consultant" (all of the ones I checked at the BBB's web site also replace roofs) would recommend something different than what apparently is acceptable to the local building inspection department?

It's slowly dawning on me that my roof was probably installed according to locally "generally accepted roofing practices." The building inspector apparently had no problem with the missing and misplaced nails. And if a contractor can get away with that when the problem is specifically pointed out to the inspector (he was up on the roof), why would a local professional roofing consultant (who also replaces roofs locally) want to rock the boat?

Harry