» Proper Redecking Practice, plywood over 1x4

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  Post subject: Proper Redecking Practice, plywood over 1x4
PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 2:18 pm 
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[color=black]I just had an old house reroofed including redecking the entire house. The original decking was spaced 1x4s. The roofers removed the old shingles, shakes, and nails and laid the new 1/2" plywood over the 1x4s. They did not take care to make sure than the edges met on 1x4s and made no attempt to hit rafters w/ nails.
But my real question is this: when you redeck over existing decking you necessarily raise the height of the deck by the thickness of the new decking, in this case 1/2". That means that the decking is no longer flush w/ the fascia boards or crown moulding as the case may be. The edge of the plywood is visible. Is this standard redecking practice and what do you do about the exposed plywood?

Bill
Memphis


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 2:28 pm 
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We always run flashing up the gables to hide the plywood.As far as sheets not hitting the 1*4's thats just a hack job,they should have been cut to land on them.And trusses should have been chalked out so they were nailed into as well.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 2:32 pm 
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Sounds like a hack job to me also.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 3:41 pm 
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Hi,

You do not need to hit the rafters. The 1x4's are moved up to hit the joint of the plywood.

Chances are you will have no problems with the way it was done. The 1x4's are close enough together that the plywood should lay flat. This is why the guy cut corners and did not move the 1x4's. You may want to get a couple of bundles of shingles if any of the plywood buckles. It is rare but does happen.


The guy who put your roof on should have use an edging to cover the plywood.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 6:14 pm 
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Yeah, I'm gonna have to agree with Lefty on this one.

I like to cut new 1x's & install them vertically on the existing rafters so that you get a fully flush roof deck with ALL the 1x's; that will prevent (or @ least slow down) any overdrive on the decking nails or staples that are used to attach the roof decking.

As for the rakes & eaves, yes - some sort of a block or gap insert should have been used. It is also common to have an oversized or longer faced kind of drip edge to conceal the gaps.

Can you post any photos for us? If no actual photos, how about the links & then I'll fix the "url" for you soas to embed pics in this thread.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 11:01 pm 
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The horizontal seams on the plywood don't need to fall on the underlying 1" x 4" material.
The vertical seams need to line up on the truss's/rafters.
1" x 4" skip sheathing won't hold the nails very well for very long and in time you are likely to see the seams in the plywood as they start to loosen up.
You will have loose decking and nail pops where the vertical seams are not centered over the truss's/rafters.
I see it all the time...

We use a drip edge/gutter apron on the eaves and a drip edge on the rakes on all buildings unless it is an architectural detail of the building not to have it.
It is common practice in my area to do so.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 01, 2008 11:15 pm 
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I like to rip my first row to land on the skip-sheathing,and the rest of the rows usually then work out and land on them also.Just how I do it.Ditto Axiom on everything else...


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 1:03 am 
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The horizontal gaps aren't wide enough to worry about, unless you are talking some extreme widths.

But, I disagree with the other guys about not landing on the rafters with your vertical edges.

I am sure they at least nail the sheets properly, but I have seen way too many other contractors re-decked jobs over skip sheathing pop up at the 4 foot vertical seams, which either indicates a lack of nailing, which should be every 6" OC, or that the depth of the nail did not penetrate the skip sheathing enough, or that the skip sheathing does not have the same holding power or an 8 penny nail by itself.

Chalk line all the rafters and trim to split the center of the last one, in my opinion.

Ed

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 9:36 am 
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I have to agree that the plywood joints should be centered on rafters, being its nailed into 1 bys instead of plywood may be somewhat stronger but its just not the same in strenght as it would be if the joints was nailed in the rafters and it may pull loose in a few years.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 1:04 pm 
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is every one forgetting the # 1 cause of plywood popping? Not using ring shank nails! 8)


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 3:33 pm 
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marshall exteriors wrote:
is every one forgetting the # 1 cause of plywood popping? Not using ring shank nails! 8)


It's all I use. No staples here...

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 4:20 pm 
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bushhog109 wrote:
I have to agree that the plywood joints should be centered on rafters, being its nailed into 1 bys instead of plywood may be somewhat stronger but its just not the same in strenght as it would be if the joints was nailed in the rafters and it may pull loose in a few years.


I remember reading somewhere in the building code the specifications for sheathing nailing and where the joints are required to be backed up, but I can't recall what it said because I decided to just pull off my old split 1X8 boards and nail new plywood directly to the rafters...Dave


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 02, 2008 5:49 pm 
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The nailing pattern is 6" OC on the end vertical edges on the rafter and 12" OC on the interior covered rafters from the sheathing.

Ed

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PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2008 11:32 pm 
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I need to double check from underneath but I'm not sure they even made much attempt to hit the 1x4s - they just eyeballed it and hoped that enough made contact. And, yea, this is 100 year old 1x4 decking and it does not hold all that well, and splintered in many places.

So, does everyone agree that there should be no exposed plywood, even edges? Should that have been spelled out in the contract or is it just assumed as part of good practice?

I'll take some photos and see if I can post them.

Bill
Memphis


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 04, 2008 11:41 pm 
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we overhang plywood 1/2" for gutters.


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