quick question. what type of sealer are you using? that crap looks like it was thin as paint from the application in the photos. Were you just using drivway sealer? if so thats your first problem. that sealer was not meant for a roof. If you still insist in doing this"on your own" get an actual roofing sealer. something that is thick as molasses. ok don't be making fun of the country boy for referring molasses. tamko makes an unfibered roof and foundation coating. lovingly referred to as cold tar. if you seriously want to do it be warned that after you apply it do not even attempt to get back on that roof unless it's early in the morning and 65 or below cause it does not dry or cure. it stays the same as it was in the bucket. it gooey nasty and it will ruin almost anything it gets touches. but with no more than a couple pics to go on that can be my best suggestion, well besides a new roof of course. oh ya don't try to use a roller frame to apply. you want a nice thick coat. not rediculously thick but thick. buy yourself a cheap pushbroom for the application. pay special attention to any cracks in the roof too.
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WILLIAM's ROOFING

you need to pursue the money you lost. That is a bunch of BS. If you have any documentation of the original agreement, via email or whatever I would definitely call a lawyer. If the situation is as you said it is you have a case. what a bunch of bull.

totally agree wit sn on the money you got ripped off from. Another thing that struck me as odd is the flat part of your roof looks well FLAT! there is no way i could have recommended a standing seam well actually any metal for this roof cause you would have a tremendous problem in the transition in the back( the part where the "valley" as you put it is). Looks like they planed on f*$#*ng you.
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WILLIAM's ROOFING

ROOFING IN A CAN JUST POP THE TOP AND POOR ON THE ROOF . ALOT OF THESE SEALERS WONT STOP A LEAK. A PRRSITVE MAYBE TO KEEP THE SUN FROM GETTING TO THE ROOFING. REJUVNET A OLD ROOF THAT HAS DRIED OUT . LOST OIL IN THE ASPHALT. THAT WASNT A SMART ANSWER . THAT IS EXACTLEY WHAT YOU SHOULD DO. YOU ALREDY WASTED MONEY ON MATERLS AND DIDNT WORK. THERE IS A LOT THINGS I CANT DO WITH PRO. HELP THAT DOESNT MAKE ME AN IDOT OR YOU EITHER, I DIDNT SAY ON INCUNATE THAT.

Roofmax, why again with the capslock?

Trying to tie in a repair on a roof like that would be tough for someone who did know what they were doing. To get the new underlayment beneath the old above you would need to have a clean cut and then lift the stuff above, if you did that it's possible you may have caused cracks above your repair allowing new spots for eventual water access. Sealer up higher may take care of that.
The underlayment has to be properly lapped too, the new can't be over the old. On the lower part it appears there are several low spots where water has been ponding, are your leaks in the room around the outer walls? My guess is that material is so saturated that it's probably seeping in for days after it rains. Without completely removing the old roofing you'll probably never find or be able to fix all the leaks.

Like the other guys said, get a lawyer and try to recover your money. It sounds as if you were bullied into paying for nothing due to mistakes that weren't yours. 10 grand is just too much to let go without a fight and to fix that properly you are going to need someone who knows what they are doing.

The standing seam would be good on the pitched part but definately not the flat, some type of membrane would be better and much easier to make a good watertight transition. There are a lot of good products out there but a Florida roofer would be able to tell you which is best for your area

Wow! It is time to stop pretending to be roofers.

Have you considered a tarp?
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Professional Roofing & Waterproofing Consultant

The water probably ponds right there. It looks like the two roofs angle in towards eachother. A metal roof would not have done anything.

I also believe there is A LOT more to the story of the 10 grand that you guys would just "move on" from it and write it up as a loss. If it was a shipping problem, shouldve rented a uhaul and went and got it. Also, how much could it be to ship something from a local company? Something just doesnt meet the eye.

rooferwill wrote:

quick question. what type of sealer are you using? that crap looks like it was thin as paint from the application in the photos. Were you just using drivway sealer? if so thats your first problem. that sealer was not meant for a roof. If you still insist in doing this"on your own" get an actual roofing sealer. something that is thick as molasses. ok don't be making fun of the country boy for referring molasses. tamko makes an unfibered roof and foundation coating. lovingly referred to as cold tar. if you seriously want to do it be warned that after you apply it do not even attempt to get back on that roof unless it's early in the morning and 65 or below cause it does not dry or cure. it stays the same as it was in the bucket. it gooey nasty and it will ruin almost anything it gets touches. but with no more than a couple pics to go on that can be my best suggestion, well besides a new roof of course. oh ya don't try to use a roller frame to apply. you want a nice thick coat. not rediculously thick but thick. buy yourself a cheap pushbroom for the application. pay special attention to any cracks in the roof too.

I believe it is called Kool seal Elastomeric Sealer

rooferwill wrote:

totally agree wit sn on the money you got ripped off from. Another thing that struck me as odd is the flat part of your roof looks well FLAT! there is no way i could have recommended a standing seam well actually any metal for this roof cause you would have a tremendous problem in the transition in the back( the part where the "valley" as you put it is). Looks like they planed on f*$#*ng you.

Why, a Standing seam roof Overlaps, and because its metal the water won't cause any rot. If any of it stands on the roof it will just evaporate. And because of the seams water would have to pour so vast as to built up 1 1/2 inches on something that has no walls.
what else could possibly accomplish this with the same weight, price, and work?

Bill6208 wrote:

Trying to tie in a repair on a roof like that would be tough for someone who did know what they were doing. To get the new underlayment beneath the old above you would need to have a clean cut and then lift the stuff above, if you did that it's possible you may have caused cracks above your repair allowing new spots for eventual water access. Sealer up higher may take care of that. The underlayment has to be properly lapped too, the new can't be over the old. On the lower part it appears there are several low spots where water has been ponding, are your leaks in the room around the outer walls? My guess is that material is so saturated that it's probably seeping in for days after it rains. Without completely removing the old roofing you'll probably never find or be able to fix all the leaks. Like the other guys said, get a lawyer and try to recover your money. It sounds as if you were bullied into paying for nothing due to mistakes that weren't yours. 10 grand is just too much to let go without a fight and to fix that properly you are going to need someone who knows what they are doing. The standing seam would be good on the pitched part but definately not the flat, some type of membrane would be better and much easier to make a good watertight transition. There are a lot of good products out there but a Florida roofer would be able to tell you which is best for your area

The one place we have "patched it" and replaced anything so far we took it all down. put new plywood on. Put the new Paper underneath the old and put tar all in that and all over the seam. This paper was completely tarred up and then have 2 or 3 more sheets applied over it and then elastomeric sealer.
No the Leaks are not at the edges they are in various random spots.

Cerberus wrote:

Wow! It is time to stop pretending to be roofers. Have you considered a tarp?

explain to me how the hell a tarp is going to do anything for a flat roof...

To everyone asking about the money thing.

The credit card company DID believe us and we were fine. The company then went back and lied about everything. Saying all these fake things like a shipping guy came and we fought with him about the delivery for hours and all this other weird stuff.

Also, the shipping price went from 150 dollars to 1800 dollars. If my dad couldn't afford paying the extra money that wasn't in their quote why would he be able to afford shipping??
The whole event doesn't have enough documentation for alot of proof , we don't have money for a lawyer. Its a company, they will have a great lawyer because they Do have money, and if they already made up enough crap to make the credit card company believe the then they obviously have something more than us as far as being convincing anyways. Nothing can be done. You could easily say the printed out quote is faked or some crap like that. Believe me my dad would like to get the money back, but he can't.



By the way, update. It rained all day today.A section of the drywall in the room with the flat section of roof got so soaked it crumpled and fell to the floor. Big mess.

We can't work on the roof until it stops raining. Its rained more than every other day this month. We need at least a week. 1-2 days for the roof to DRY. a day to apply some sealer , then a few days for that to dry. There is just no opportunity. Even another solution would be difficult because of all the rain.

You can tarp in the rain. It sounds like its time.

mcdowell the name of the product was the correct one for the product i was refering to. its TAMKO NONFIBERED ROOF AND FONDATION COATING. they also make a fibered one too. The reason i said the standing seam wouldn't work is the transition in the roof. you will have a lap in that area. A lap in the metal is the weak spot. with that flat a transition it will be a problem. I've been on too many to not know this. water doesn't only run downhill as any true roofer knows. materials alone for an 045 EPDM rubber roof with half in. high density wood fiber board would run roughly 200 dollars a sq. 1 sq.= 100 sq. ft. according to the supplier and area. so a 20 sq roof would be around $4000 plus labor( thats a rough estimate). that roof could be run in less than a day. And the rubber is only 29lbs per sq. and thehigh density wood fiber is roughly around 100 lbs a sq. So for a 10x10 area you might have 130 lbs. Whats a sq of 24 guage weigh? With proper maintance 20 yrs easy lifespan. So tell me what could do this with the same weight, price and work. find a roofer to fix it and forget it
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WILLIAM's ROOFING